The Masterpiece London design fair 2016 will pay tribute to the unparalleled genius of Zaha Hadid through the exhibition of some of her lesser-known projects. The exhibit will be curated by Francis Sultana, CEO of David Gill Gallery and will narrate the life story of the architect famous for her neo-futuristic deisgns. The pieces on show will include those from Hadid’s Liquid Glacial furniture collection, along with her personal items, sketches, paintings and photographs. Fashion pieces would also be included, such as her United Nude Nova shoes and her reinterpretation of the Louis Vuitton “Icone bag.” Masterpiece London exhibit is on now till July 6 at the Royal Hospital in London’s Chelsea district. Admission tickets cost £28.
THE LADY AMID GENTLEMEN | Kathryn Sargent sits elegant amid her creations at her Savile Row establishment, her own sharply tailored attire the best endorsement of her craft (Photo: Jonathan Hordle/Courtesy: Kathryn Sargent)
Here’s to the indomitable lady that smashed the ceiling at a Gentlemen’s Club with aplomb. We’re talking about Kathryn Sargent, the first woman ever to set up her own establishment at the world’s most elite address for bespoke tailoring: Savile Row. In all of 213 years, Kathryn Sargent’s is the first female name to grace the front of a shop at the sacrosanct streets of sartorial bliss. But she has risen slowly up the ranks, gathering laurels along the way—from becoming the first female Head Cutter to receiving the Hand and Lock Prize for Embroidery Design twice and creating bespoke pieces for clients ranging from David Beckham to members of the royal family. Sargent’s inherent desire to swim against the major tide of womenswear in fashion coupled with her instinctive taste for sharp tailoring led her to the very top at the hallowed streets of Mayfair.
Recently, she has come up with two new offerings, ‘Crafted’ and ‘Sargent Harris Tweed’. While Crafted is made-to-measure tailoring delivered at a faster pace and keener price than her full bespoke offer, the second one is a partnership where Harris Tweed has created a unique cloth for Sargent’s designs: a unisex house tweed of subtlest heather tones and soft over-check, perfect for a bespoke blazer or statement coat. Though her shop is open only until the end of summer for now, a very confident Sargent has plans for ‘evolution’ even as Savile Row evolves with the times—and she dares you to “watch this space”!
In this exclusive conversation with The Luxe Café, Sargent speaks of doing a ‘modern’ take on traditional handcrafted tailoring and the changing contours of a once-impenetrable male bastion.
CARVED IN HISTORY | For the first time in 213 years, a woman’s name has graced the front of a shop at Savile Row (Photo: Jonathan Hordle/Courtesy: Kathryn Sargent)
The Luxe Café: Being the first woman with her own tailoring house on Savile Row is a major achievement. Would you describe for us your journey that led to this destination? What do you attribute your success to? I first went to art school and then on to fashion college. It was there that I began to have a passion for menswear, which naturally led me to Savile Row. I completed a work placement at a smaller Savile Row tailors, Denman and Goddard and then went on to work at Gieves & Hawkes, where I worked my way up through the ranks and eventually became their first ever female Head Cutter. After 15 years there I decided to set up my own business in 2012, and now I am fortunate enough to be the first woman with her own tailoring house on Savile Row. I attribute a lot of my success to hard work. Also throughout my career I have received a lot of support by my colleagues within the Savile Row community. I have been lucky enough to have amazing mentors who have inspired and helped me enormously.
What made you take up tailoring as a profession? How did you prepare for it? I was always interested in fashion, in particular men wearing sharp suits and wondered how to make them. As a teenager I remember going on a family holiday to Paris and noticed how differently the women dressed – their style and attention to detail inspired me to want to make things for stylish people.
SARTORIAL SEDUCTION | A truly bespoke garment is an investment piece made to perfectly match the client’s vision, lifestyle and personality, says Sargent (Photo: Reuben Paris/Courtesy: Kathryn Sargent)
Did you ever feel squeezed up against the proverbial glass ceiling? When I first started working in tailoring being a woman was more unusual. However over the years the majority of people I have encountered have been supportive. I was aware early on that being a woman, or indeed a man working on Savile Row, you needed to earn people’s respect through hard work and being passionate about the training and the art of tailoring.
You’ve mentioned elsewhere that you used to take apart Burberry suits to help yourself learn tailoring. Are there other such interesting anecdotes from your learning process? At college I used to buy second-hand suits and coats from charity shops and then take them apart. I would photocopy them and then try to put them back together. From this I developed a taste for tailoring, in terms of my own wardrobe, and started wearing some of those tailored pieces myself. I think as a result I was one of the most smartly dressed people at college!
Persisting Passion PERISISTING PASSION | To learn the intricacies of tailoring, Sargent used to take apart suits bought from charity shops and try to put them back together (Photo: Reuben Paris/Courtesy: Kathryn Sargent)
What is it that sets you apart from others on Savile Row—other than your gender, of course! My brand has at its core a modern take on traditional handcrafted tailoring. Unlike some of the other houses on Savile Row I do not have a house style, which means that the client leads the process and I create beautiful garments based on their specific requirements. I will of course help guide them through the bespoke experience, offering recommendations and ideas throughout our relationship, but for me a truly bespoke garment is an investment piece made to perfectly match the client’s vision, lifestyle and personality.
ART OF PRECISION | Creating a bespoke garment is an exacting process that takes about three months from start to finish (Photo: Reuben Paris/Courtesy: Kathryn Sargent)
Could you recount for us some memorable episodes from your experiences at Savile Row? We have showcased the woollen trade alongside the tailoring trade during Wool Week on Savile Row. This involves the entire street being laid with real turf and flocks of sheep being brought onto the Row. I have made a suit for the shepherdess and all the tailors have open houses. It is a fun opportunity to showcase the trades!
A bespoke suit is a work of art, a masterpiece. What goes into the creation of this masterpiece? I meet with a client for an initial consultation, where I get to know them and understand their requirements and lifestyle. The design of the garment(s) are discussed, cloth and lining chosen, and finally measurements taken. I then cut a pattern and prepare the first fitting. I meet with the client again for the fitting, mark up the garments and alter the pattern where necessary. The garments are then baisted together for a second fitting with the client. The process is then repeated two to three more times until the garments are finished and delivered to the client to wear. It is an exacting process which takes approximately three months from start to finish.
How much do you charge for your bespoke creations? Prices are dependent upon the cloth selected but to give you an idea, a two piece bespoke suit starts from £4,220 (£3,520 export) and a bespoke jacket from £2,970 (£2,475 export), and a pair of bespoke trousers from £1,300 (£1,083 export).
EXCLUSIVE ELEGANCE | Sargent has partnered with Harris Tweed to create a unique cloth for her designs—a unisex house tweed of subtlest heather tones and soft over-check
More and more women clients are approaching Savile Row. What differences do you see in the approach and requirements of your female clients? Some of my women clients are frustrated by designer offerings, in terms of how poorly their garments fit them. When it comes to tailoring, many are realising that for about the same price they can have something made that will be unique and fit them perfectly.
Do you think we’d be seeing a more feminine side of the typically male Savile Row—both in designs and their creators—in the near future? People view suits as more of a masculine creation, however part of the excitement of creating bespoke pieces for women is using traditional methods and craftsmanship to include more feminine details and style elements. There are now more female tailors, cutters and clients coming to Savile Row, and therefore it is inevitable that we will see a progression of designs over the coming years, but with the history and craftsmanship remaining at the heart of the work.
ENDURING ARDOUR | Sargent spent over 15 years on Savile Row, perfecting the art of sharp tailoring before opening her own establishment (Photo: Jonathan Hordle/Courtesy: Kathryn Sargent)
What embodies the idea of true luxury for you? For me true luxury is about making sure that every part of a client’s bespoke journey is the absolute best it can possibly be. This includes ensuring they feel comfortable during their fittings, attending to their needs and working to fit to their lifestyle, using the finest cloths and materials, and creating something exquisite.
BEFITTINGLY BESPOKE | True luxury, says Sargent, us to ensure that every part of a client’s bespoke journey is the absolute best it can possibly be (Photo: Jonathan Hordle /Courtesy: Kathryn Sargent)
Bottega Venetta’s new line of shoulder bags comes into stores straight off the runway, and they’re seductive as hell. There’s the chic small bag in new light grey calf with Ayers leather details, the detailed, craftsy-looking one in Rose Buvard Emroidered Ayers with exotic leather details and the bigger, more formal version in camel new calf again with Ayers leather detailing. The ‘Runway Collection’ is available in-store at DLF Emporio in New Delhi.
The 18 year old luxury hotel in Kuala Lumpur has been reopened this month after complete refurbishment, making it completely suited for the needs of the modern global traveller. Located in Kuala Lumpur’s luxury shopping, commercial and nightlife downtown district known as the Golden Triangle, Ritz Carlton commissioned the renowned New York-based design studio Alexandra Champalimaud to reimagine and recreate the place. The fresh design incorporates a palette of pleasing neutral shades, contemporary details and high quality furnishings and finishes throughout the 364 new guestrooms and suites, restaurants and public spaces. Ritz Carlton was famed to be Mayalsia’s first luxury property offering round the clock butler service, and the tradition has been continued while adding numerous new features. The property’s Spa Village team has developed a new treatment based around the experience of Asia’s first Sensory Sound Bath Room and the culinary team have introduced their own equivalent of a butler with a Chef-on-Call to tailor personalized menus and experiences for corporate and private events. The Ritz Carlton also boasts the largest number of global luxury brands under one roof, some of which are in Malaysia for the first time.
Ferrari snagged a record number of awards this year at the International Engine of the Year Awards, held at the Engine Expo 2016 in Stuttgart. The crowning glory came with the win for its 3.9-litre, twin-turbocharged V8 unit, which is now the International Engine of The Year. What this means is that for the first time in many years, a performance engine has taken the top honours for the award. Previous winners include BMW’s 1.5-litre three-pot, Ford’s three-cylinder EcoBoost, Fiat’s 875cc TwinAir, and the VW Group’s 1.4-litre TSI. But this engine not only snagged the top category for Ferrari, but also bagged the awards for the Performance Engine, New Engine, and 3.0-litre to 4.0-litre category too. That’s four awards—and the fifth came with Ferrari’s 6.3-litre, naturally-aspirated unit seen in the F12 Berlinetta and F12tdf, which got the Above 4.0-litre award. The 3.9-litre is used across the 488 GTB, 488 Spider and (in a revised form) in the California T.
The Pier 16 Macau 3D World is the latest among the many delights offered by Macao. ‘The City Of Duality’ with a unique historical and archaeological Macanese culture, boasts of the world’s first museum with 4D paintings, where every visitor is the director of their own photos in a 3D universe. The Museum offers visitors a chance to create their own 3D photographic images. “It is a great way for audiences to get a chance to creatively try out cutting edge technology in Macao which is a great fun activity for the entire family or a group of friends,” says Arzan Khambatta, Head, India representative office, Macao Government Tourism Office. This tech-savvy museum brings visitors a new sensory experience through 4D elements such as lighting effects, analog sound and props. The museum is approximately 18,000 square feet with a Michael Jackson installation in 3D, a 3D Jurassic Park, Macao Journey, 3D interactive experience zone, among others. It has over 100 photography points in seven theme zones and visitors can also be a part of the art piece by changing the formation of the painting.
Feast your eyes on the brand new collection of handcrafted, hand finished, bespoke golf equipment from Bentley. Developed in partnership with VEGA, this collection of golf clubs, bags, luggage and accessories is hand forged in Ichikawa in Japan, a town with a history of forging going back to the period of Samurai Sword production. Detailing from Bentley cars features in the design of the golf range, which is licensed for sale by Professional Golf Europe and is truly bespoke at every level—not to mention the prices. A standard set of 8 irons comes for $3,500—a little more than $400 for each—and an additional driver would cost $750. Then the Bentley putter comes for $500. Of course, if you really want to go the whole way, you can opt for any of the numerous upgrades the company offers, such as custom-made $10,000 shafts or alligator skin grips. The golf accessories also include carbon steel ball markers for $100, and the $750 sterling silver ball marker which is made by Ottewill Silversmiths, creator of replica versions of the Claret Jug given to the Open Championship winner and the Augusta National Golf Club clubhouse given to the Masters Tournament champion. But we’ll tell you what’s truly bespoke. The buyers that want the whole ‘Bentley Golf Experience’ are flown to Japan where they get custom golf shafts manufactured exclusively for them, all based on a 3-dimensional swing analysis. That’s Bentley for you.
The Icons series of pens by Montegrappa pays tribute to boxing legend Muhammad Ali, ‘The Greatest of All Times’. The collection is composed of fountain pens and rollerball pens in resin with sterling silver trims or in resin with gold trims. There’s also an exclusive knockout edition with gold trims and diamonds. The pen features the manufacturing technique known as “Diffusion Bonding” allowing the fusion of the white pearlised resin with the solid black resin. The collection stylishly incorporates various elements that create that special Muhammad Ali feel. The nib is engraved with the silhouette of the victorious boxer with his arms raised, while the clip, with the signature Montegrappa trackball, takes the shape of the seams of his gloves. The profile of the cap is inspired by a ‘punching ball’, while the top is designed like the diamond studded ring that the boxer flaunted after winning the world title. The cap also boasts the great man’s signature, with the words, ‘The Greatest of All Time’ inscribed on it. This limited edition collection includes a total of 1942 pieces—a trihute to the year of his birth, and also celebrates the important numbers of the boxing legend’s life: the 61 meetings that he took part in represented by 61 fountain pens, his 56 wins reflected in an equal number of roller pens, and the 37 ‘knock-out’ gold trim editions that are a tribute to Ali’s 37 knock outs.
2016 marks England’s Year of The Garden and Hallmark Flitwick Manor has taken inspiration from its picturesque garden setting to bring the quintessentially British afternoon tradition outdoors, as it launches its ‘Flitwick Picnic Afternoon Tea Experience’ this July. The tea will be presented in a wicker hamper to enjoy in the hotel’s gardens, complete with picnic blankets and flasks of tea or coffee. But that’s not all, you can absolutely revel in quintessential British pleasures with a spot of croquet on the hotel’s lawn, or opt for the complete experience with the ‘Countryside Epicurean Escape’. This includes the Flitwick Picnic Afternoon Tea, overnight stay in one of the hotel’s 18 individually styled rooms and dinner from the brand new summer menu. Oh, and did we mention what the Afternoon Tea actually comprises of? Home baked scones, clotted cream and jam, freshly baked cakes and delicate finger sandwiches all prepared by Head Chef Stefano Boi and his team. Now, if that doesn’t evoke Enid Blyton and Lewis Carroll, we don’t know what will!
